Tips on buying a second hand car.
Buying a car is always exciting, it can be hard to remember that the purchase is as much as an investment as it is an extension of you. Therefore there are so many points that you must try to remember whilst searching & purchasing, to help protect you & your investment.
Firstly, firmly decide upon your needs, requirements & affordability & stick to it. Have a good idea of where to start looking & do plenty of research before you start spending time out & about looking at any old banger.
If you are purchasing the car privately or trade, compile a list of sensible questions that you want to ask the seller
e.g.
How long have they owned the car?
Has the car had a recent MOT & service?
Is it taxed?
What condition is the car in?
Why are they selling it?
Has the car been involved in an accident?
What features does the car have?
Is it in full working order?
Is there a warranty?
Ensure that you have all contact details of the seller, landline, mobile & address, just in case you need to check further.
Always visit the seller at their home address (if purchasing privately). Therefore you can check the V5C document & that the vehicle is registered at that address. You can also check that the V5C hasn't been illegally amended.
Take the original advert with you, along with any other notes you've made if you've spoken to them prior to your visit. This will enable you to check the all important details of mileage, tax & condition are what was earlier relayed to you.
If you are really keen on a vehicle before seeing it, it may be worth while to a car history check. It will cost but it is a smart investment. The check will reveal if the car has been reported stolen, has outstanding finance on it (if so, it's technically still the property of the finance house), has been written-off or scrapped and what the full spec of the vehicle should be. You'll be able to confirm the Vehicle's Identification Number. This can be matched to the numbers on the car itself, usually found on the chassis, on the windscreen or on the floor by the driver's seat. If you are buying from a dealer, ask what checks they've performed, & ask to see the report. Or you could pay for a history report from companies such as HPI.
When visiting the seller, either private or trade, & the vehicle, try to remember the following:
– Never check a car in the dark or in the rain. It will distort any imperfections.
– If possible, try to check the car before meeting the seller & being distracted.
– Always start the car with a cold engine. This will make it easier to spot starting problems or excessive smoke.
– Crouch down in front of each front wheel and look along the length of the car. Ideally the front wheels should be directly in front of the rear. If they're not, it could mean the car has been in a crash, resulting in a twisted chassis.
– Check the gaps between the body panels, if they're not even & equal, the car could have been refitted badly, or again may have been in a crash.
– Look at the tyres & their tread guides.
– Check under the car, beneath the bonnet & under the carpet for rust and signs that may suggest the car has been in a crash, such as welding marks.
– Inside the car, test the seatbelts, check the steering wheel and dashboard are bolted on correctly. Also make sure the front seats move about properly and all switches work. If the car shows low mileage, yet the pedals and seats are worn, it should send alarm bells ringing. The car may have been 'clocked' (i.e. the car's mileage has been altered). Under the bonnet, look for signs of oil leaks on top of the engine, and underneath. Check the oil using the dipstick. Low levels could suggest that the owner doesn't look after the car properly.
– Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket & we all know what that could mean.
– It's important that you check the car thoroughly for any faults or damages. Check the exhaust. If it needs replacing, you could barter the cost off the asking price.
If after these checks you are satisfied, then take a test drive. Ensure that you're fully insured to drive the seller's car, take your certificate of insurance with you. Before you start, turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other. There should be no worrying noises. Also test the handbrake by pulling it on & driving off gently. If the car isn't held back, there may be something amiss with the brakes. Whilst driving the car, go on as many different roads surfaces. Ensure you use all the gears, the change should be smooth & that the clutch bites. Keep the radio off, so that you can listen out for any noises from the vehicle & engine.
After your test drive & if you're confident that the vehicle is what you want, remind yourself of any work you think might need doing to the car. You could use this to negotiate the price. Every car over three years old must have a valid MOT certificate to prove road worthiness. If the MOT's due to expire, ask the seller to get it re-tested. Check the tax disc, its expiry date & the registration shown on the disc matches the car's number plate, and if there's little or no tax left, ask for its renewal cost to be taken off the price. Any faults found or expiry of tax or MOT can be used to lower the price. If you want to haggle, stay firm, clam & don't become intimidated. State what you know or any findings. Ask the seller what they expect to get & make a realistic lower offer. They can either accept your offer, or make a counter offer. If they are about to accept your offer, move to shake their hand & confirm the deal.
When the deal has been sealed, ensure you see all of the following original documents, otherwise cancel the sale:
– The logbook (V5C document) it must be valid. The seller must be the recorded keeper in the V5C. If not, they're not legally entitled to sell you the car, unless they are a registered dealer selling on behalf of another client.
– The car's service history
– MOT details
– The registration number and vehicle identification number
– A valid tax disc (if the seller said tax is included)
– Check the logbook (V5C document), if there are dealer stamps, the vehicle has been maintained. You can always call the garage to check they did carry out the work.
If everything is in order make your payment. Paying cash is a strong position to be in. It can mean you can negotiate on price as sellers get their money straight away and dealers avoid paying credit card transaction fees. Credit Cards are also a safe way to buy. However, you may not get the best price from a dealer because they'll have to pay a card transaction fee. If paying by cheque you'll probably have to wait for funds to clear before picking up the car keys. If you are buying privately, try to see as much of the seller's ID and proof of address as you can before leaving, don't hand over the cheque until you're satisfied the seller will still be there when you return to collect the car. Bankers Draft's are also welcomed by dealers, but it will cost you at the bank. No matter how you pay, always get a receipt, especially if it's cash. Get two copies signed, one for you & one for the seller. Make sure the seller's address/stamp & the car details are on both.
Copyright © 2008 Click4Warranty
The opinions expressed are those of the author and are not necessarily held by the Click4Group unless specifically stated. The material is for general information only. Always obtain independent, professional advice for your own particular situation.
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